There’s a lot to love about Rio de Janeiro, from the brooding presence of Christ the Redeemer to the fabulous street parties and samba dancing that light up the city after dark. But to really understand the essence of Rio, partygoers need to go beyond the snazzy clubs and bars in the upscale Leblon, Gavea and Ipanema neighborhoods. Instead, they need to go where the locals hang out, in Lapa, the party zone around the city’s historic downtown area.
As it happens, this area is full of spots that attract a diverse crowd, from young Brazilian students to expats. But the one thing that all of them have in common is a love of music and a willingness to get down.
The best way to experience this scene is to join in on the fun. Start by soaking up the atmosphere by following Cariocas in their footsteps: once the sun goes down, they wash off their day’s sand and hop from bar to bar, hanging out in the streets or in the public spaces around them. Then they’ll settle into their favorite hangout for a few cool cervejas and some snacks.
Depending on the night, there could be live bands playing or DJs spinning the latest in electronic dance music, hip-hop and rap. For a change of pace, there are also some more laid back ambiances where you can sip on caipirinhas and listen to choro and traditional samba.
One of the most iconic places to hang out and dance in Rio is Pedra do Sal (Rock of Salt), where samba musicians gather every Monday and Friday night at 7pm to play their samba songs. The party continues for 3-4 hours as the tunes move from samba to Brazilian funk or international hits.
Another option is to hit the samba clubs in the city’s center, particularly those that focus on the more traditional style of music. For example, the Trapiche Gamboa is a rustic hall that was once home to the city’s most prominent samba school and now hosts an impressive lineup of talent each Thursday evening.
Other samba clubs worth checking out include Rio Scenarium guidefrancophoneriodejaneiro.com, which has a stunning decoration made from repurposed objects, vintage stuff and Asian ceramics. And Fosfobox in Copacabana is an underground club that plays a mix of hip-hop, reggaeton, bass and funk, with its clientele composed mainly of young Rio residents.
If you want to try your hand at karaoke, check out Casa da Matriz or Teatro Odisseia, two venues under the same management. They both host indie parties, samba blocos and karaoke nights for the young local crowd.